The Time-Crunched Cyclist Podcast by CTS

Episode 194: Shorter Cranks and Narrower Bars for Optimal Cycling Performance?

May 01, 2024 • CTS • Season 4 • Episode 194

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Topics Covered In This Episode:

  •  Why shorter cranks and narrower bars?
  • Determining the right road, gravel, MTB handlebar width
  • Recommendations for amateur and time-crunched cyclists
  • What is crank length and why it matters
  • Benefits of shorter cranks
  • Should cranks on all your bikes be the same length?
  • Bonus: How do you choose a good saddle?

Guest:

Renee Eastman is a CTS Premier Level Coach and has been coaching with the company for more than 20 years. She has been a professional bike fitter for 15 years and was one of the first fitters to use the Retül bike fit system. She has a master's degree in exercise science, has worked for USA Cycling, and is a 6-time Masters National Champion.

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Host
Adam Pulford has been a CTS Coach for more than 14 years and holds a B.S. in Exercise Physiology. He's participated in and coached hundreds of athletes for endurance events all around the world.

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Speaker 1:

From the team at CTS. This is the Time Crunch Cyclist podcast, our show dedicated to answering your training questions and providing actionable advice to help you improve your performance even if you're strapped for time. I'm your host, coach Adam Pulford, and I'm one of the over 50 professional coaches who make up the team at CTS. In each episode, I draw on our team's collective knowledge, other coaches and experts in the field to provide you with the practical ways to get the most out of your training and ultimately become the best cyclist that you can be. Now on to our show. Welcome back, time Crunch fans. I'm your host, coach Adam Pulford. Renee Eastman is no stranger to the podcast but for those who haven't caught, her past episodes on anything from lab testing to climbing out of the saddle and metabolic flexibility, I'll encourage you to scan back through the TCC episodes to listen to those. But we have the special treat of having this premier CTS coach back on the podcast. So, renee, welcome to the show.

Speaker 2:

Thanks, Adam. Thanks for having me back. Glad to be here.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, it's always fun to collab with you on topics and questions and things like that and, as you know, our listeners can write in and ask any training related question. And today we have a question on bike fit and since you're definitely an expert in the field, I want to get your angle on some of this. I've done a ton of bike fits in the past, but I honestly I don't think I've actually done a bike fit for probably like six or seven years now. Um, I don't know when. When was the last time you did a bike fit?

Speaker 2:

Sunday, um, and I've got two on Thursday, um, this is, you know, busy time a year for me. Um, I am a retool bike fitter. I've been using retool for gosh better part of 15 years now and, uh, you know, I like to tell people the story that CTS was actually one of the people who first started using uh retool before there was any. You know, official training, uh, since then I have gone through the official training and now I, you know, do quite a few bike fits every week. Uh, I work at a out of a local shop here and I, to put it in perspective, if you haven't done one in five years, I've done 230 in the last four years, five years.

Speaker 2:

So, and I'm only doing that part-time, but with practice you get really good. Um, with practice, uh, you get really good. But also, I get to see a lot of people. There's a lot of things that you uh start to appreciate. The more uh uh trends you see in, the more like kind of common uh, common limitations for people on bike fit. So, um, there's no better expertise, I think, than doing and then you know, of course, continuing eds.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, and the continuing education is good, but doing and practicing always brings the two together and that's why, again, I feel comfortable speaking on this. But the nuances, and then those trends, and why those trends are occurring, that's why you're here. So let me read the question and then we'll get into it. How does that sound?

Speaker 2:

Let's go.

Speaker 1:

All right. So here's the original question and it says why are my training partners coming back from bike fits with shorter cranks and more narrow bars? Should I go narrower and shorter, or is this just a phase two? And that's coming from Reagan?

Speaker 2:

They're all phases, Like every single thing, you see, whether it's a certain type of drink or a certain thing on your bike. It's all trends. But I think the reason why you're seeing your friends do it is because the pros are doing it and there's always a trickle down, but there there are some rationale behind it. So Okay.

Speaker 1:

Well, let's let's get into the rationale and let's just start with narrow bars. Why, why are the pros going more narrow? Let's just start there.

Speaker 2:

Very simply, aerodynamics punching a a more narrow a hole in into the wind.

Speaker 1:

And what does that do?

Speaker 2:

Saves you watts or makes you faster for the watts that you have. You know, it seems like that is the one of the biggest changes, probably over the last five, 10 years, is the focus towards aerodynamics. Everybody's optimized just about everything. But you know, look at the I'm old, you know from the 90s and aughts like where we wore baggy jerseys and things like that and now the bikes are more aerodynamics. You know people are riding aero helmets in road events and just trying to maximize every watt or get that every second faster. So aerodynamics, simple.

Speaker 1:

Aerodynamics yes. So if that narrows the frontal surface area and helps us to go faster at the same power or potentially go faster over the long run, right, more efficiency is that always better, or are there some drawbacks to that?

Speaker 2:

Yeah, you do. There is a penalty for narrow. So let's start with standard position. Or standard width would be that your arms can be basically straight out in front of you. There's a nice line from your shoulder to your hand, kind of like a direct line, or maybe just a little bit wider, you know, somewhere in there that would be standard position. And then when you go more narrow than that you are, you know, kind of bringing your arm across your body, that is more uncomfortable on your shoulders. It's just you can't get quite as relaxed there, so you'd have to adapt to that position. It closes up your chest a little bit, so maybe makes breathing a little bit more constricted and you know, depending on how narrow you're going, it also affects handling a little bit. Like you take it to the extreme and you're like this, like your bike's going to handle terribly. So there there is a.

Speaker 1:

There is a penalty for that yeah, I mean like a time trial fit. Like in the skis right like super narrow, the agility goes down. Um, yeah, so that standard. So we have the standard fit, we have the narrower fit. Um, I don't know, is there a wide fit then to talk about, or is it just?

Speaker 2:

yeah, let's go back to the 90s, in early 2000s, when everyone was riding 44s or wider like um and I think that's probably the fashion on gravel now and wider um. Back in the old road racing days it was like get your elbows out, create, create some space, get wide, get leverage when you're climbing.

Speaker 2:

And on gravel that wider width gives you a little bit more turning radius, a little bit better for handling, so a little bit better on the rough terrain. And that's why you see that on mountain bikes. Now Mountain bikes have gone the other way. Go to the 90s and you see John Tomac with his little teeny bars and now everybody's pretty wide on the bars on mountain biking. Because bikes have much more travel. There's a lot more like enduro and trail bikes and things like that. So simply put, wider allows for a little bit better handling.

Speaker 1:

So, when it comes down to, you know we talked about the reason why it's trending is the pros are doing it. So should the majority of our listeners, who are amateurs, time crunched athletes? Should they be concerned with punching a smaller hole through the universe with their narrow bars, or should they go more standard, or should they think more stable and go wider? What's, what's your message?

Speaker 2:

I generally lean towards standard because that's going to be a position that you can ride comfortably in. Wide bars also kind of makes the reach a little longer too, and when I'm fitting a lot of people, reach is often a limitation, like the bars are too far away, so we're always trying to shorten up the reach. So it's just a more neutral place where you can handle well it's not overly wide and ride with better comfort. Better comfort means you ride longer, you enjoy riding, you're going to do it more and most of us don't need that one extra watt on our. You know aerodynamics. You know. If you're not already riding in a speed suit with an aero helmet and all that kind of stuff like, if you're not to that degree that aerodynamics are that important to you, then the narrow handlebars are a little bit like a step above, like start with the easy stuff. A speed suit, a narrow helmet, you know.

Speaker 1:

Good overall bike fit position right Exactly.

Speaker 2:

Body position is a huge thing yeah.

Speaker 2:

Yeah, yeah, If you don't have the flexibility to ride low anyway, the narrow bars, yeah, aren't going to be as helpful in that case. So, and let me also say this about the narrow bars and aerodynamics and your body position, like, can you ride low in your current position and can you ride in the drops in your current position? And though you know most of us aren't doing UCI regulated events, and you can, we can do the puppy paws, you know the the. Put your hands, you know, on the, on the or the forearms closer to, so you can change. The point is, you can change your position with the bars that you currently have when you need to go fast, for, you know, chasing down your buddy on the group ride or something.

Speaker 1:

That's a super valid point and I and I think like having the having a good fit where you can move, change that position, that that is a good bike fit and also, um, being able to get down into the drops, I mean that's that diminishes your frontal surface area quite a bit to the point where you know a couple hundred bucks and all the stuff that goes into changing a set of handlebars, even if they're not integrated handlebars, which is so we won't go there, um, but I mean it can save you a lot of like, time and money and stress if you just change up your handlebar or your hand position and your body angles on the bike. Right, exactly, yes, so for I guess the the question I was going to have here is if someone's listening to this, they just had a bike fit or they're thinking about going to get a bike fit and that bike fitter, whether it's you or someone else suggests narrower bars. Should they be in a rush to do that?

Speaker 2:

I'd say it's only if they're uncomfortable, when it's like we're not going from a, uh, an average width or wide width, more normal with, like, there are, uh, several ladies I fit that I'm putting them on, you know, 38 or even 36 is because they're very petite and their, their bike came stock with, you knows, or something that's just wider than they need. So in that case I'm recommending a more narrow bar for their comfort, not for some kind of marginal gain.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, that's a good point there and to that point as well, as what you touched on on mountain bike is a lot of stock. Mountain bikes are coming with handlebars that are 800. Yeah, for that, that 800 millimeter width. And when you're in the West, a lot of people are either keeping that or cutting them down to like a seven, 80 and in the West, like you got nothing to run into, there's less trees, so right, so we can have the more stable platform and that's why you see mountain bikes coming with a shorter stem right stable platform and that's why you see mountain bikes coming with a shorter stem right. The wider you go at, the more potentially stretch out if you keep the stem the same. So we go wider. When we're in the west, you go midwest or east coast, where everything's more tree and tight, you have more stuff to run into. So we'll chop them down a little bit more, maybe like 760, 740 and I get.

Speaker 1:

I get asked quite a bit like how, how wide bars you? But really comes down to what style of riding are you XC, enduro, downhill, endurance, somewhere in between? Do you have a ton of trees where you're riding? Where do you feel most comfortable? And there's no, yeah, there. There I would say there's no specific quote standard fit in that way Other than, uh, we don't. We're typically not going much wider than 800 and these days probably not going much more narrow than 700, unless you love yeah unless you love the

Speaker 2:

1995 look I'm a big fan on the mountain bike side of things. That a starting position is where you can do a good push-up. That is a nice position where you have some leverage. You do a narrow push-up, you don't have much leverage, you go too wide and you don't have as much muscular control. So there's a sweet spot in there. That's a starting point for a lot of people. But to your point. Yeah, the bikes, your bike off the shelf, it's usually going to come with very wide bars with the intention that they will be cut down. And I'd say I cut down the majority of those new bikes that I fit for mountain bikes because they do come at, like you said, 800 or at least 780. That's a. That's a thing maybe not everybody knows of is like it should be expected that you're probably going to cut your mountain bike bars down.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, a people don't know that. And they're just like running. They're like, oh, I'm just hitting every tree possible. It's like okay, have you cut your bars? No, okay, let's start there. Okay, handlebars check. Let's talk about cranks. Uh, renee, what when we say shorter cranks, what? What is short? Let's talk about that first.

Speaker 2:

Probably under 170 millimeter cranks, you know, I'd say you know most average adults you know, say 5'3 to 6'3, you know kind of in the average adult are riding anywhere from 170s to 175s. Those are like common, where short might be 165 or shorter and long might be 180 or even longer.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, and that's. That's pretty standard, right, the the 170 to 175 and in the height that you gave there. But, um, for all of our listeners who have never met you, um, would you consider yourself standard or short?

Speaker 2:

I am not standard Um, I am only five foot tall. I might be four, eleven and three quarters at my age now. So back in the olden days I couldn't find it was really hard to find cranks, even at 165. Now, or at least for the last 10 years, like finding 165s in like your big brand Shimano, sram, is actually fairly easy. And just recently, over the last maybe one or two years, shimano and SRAM are now mass producing like 160s. You know you're going to have to special order those and they're not going to come on the bikes but they are making them even shorter. But I am seeing quite a few people put on, you know, 155 millimeter cranks and those would be like very short and those are usually more like you know kind of I don't have any brands off the top of my head but like more boutique. You know special order kind of things. But that I'd say 150 to 160 is short.

Speaker 1:

Okay, so, uh, because this is a trend that's occurring are. Why is this occurring? Are the pros doing it? Did science all of a sudden validate that shorter is better? Tell us a little bit of like why, what are some of the benefits and why is this the trend right now?

Speaker 2:

so I think the major reasons I'm seeing that trend is, um, hip flexibility and knee pain, um, so when, uh, the one of the limitations on your pedal stroke is how big your circle is, where, if you have short legs and you're doing a really big circle, something that I've run into is my knee flexes too much at the top, I really have to bend and my hips rock a little bit because I'm bending my knee so much at the top. Even with an appropriate saddle height. Just how long the crank is, I don't have, you know, enough space I I would benefit from going down in in size Now to to that end. I know a lot of the. The folks I work with are, you know, in their uh, over 50 or just have had a lot of wear and tear on their bike, I mean on their bodies, maybe had a knee replacement, and I see that recommendation from you know those fitters kind of with the physical therapies specialization, that are recommending the shorter cranks for those people who have had major knee surgery, knee replacement. I know Carmichael's one of them who's on 155s now because he's had a knee replacement and just having that less flexion at the top of the pedal stroke and that's actually one of the main places you're going to get knee pain from in the pedal stroke is the excessive flexion at the top of the pedal stroke.

Speaker 2:

And then on the flexibility side, I think the shorter cranks really started to become popular with the triathletes so that you could get a lower aerodynamic position. You could have that front end lower, because one of the limitations on how low can my front end go is just your knee banging into your chest and with a shorter diameter circle your knee's not coming up as much, so it gives you more room to get that leg up over the top. So those are the you know couple of reasons. I think some minor reasons are on, certainly on like mountain bikes and having a little bit better clearance, so you're like not banging on rocks and stuff so much. So those are some of the big reasons why I see that people are moving towards that. I haven't seen it a whole lot with the pros, you know, and but I can't say that real specifically, I just don't know.

Speaker 1:

Know it for a fact yeah, I, I would agree with that, with the exception of their time trial fit. I think a lot of my my pro ladies that are optimizing their um aerodynamics and their time trial fit and it goes back to just like not banging the their chest or their stomach when it comes to that aggressive um top knee position. So everybody going shorter on the time trial fit there. And then to the mountain bike. I'd say I've gone.

Speaker 1:

I used to be one 75 on pretty much every mountain bike and this was this was a standard, right, your bike would come with one 75. Now the standard is they come with one 70 or even one 65. And some of that is because it's crank clearance, but it's also, uh, goes back to the whole pedaling dynamic where the knee's not coming up as much, cause we typically will sit a little bit more forward and have a pretty aggressive position there, even though we're not as hunched over as we are like in a time trial position. But that it I mean. To me it definitely feels way more smooth and way more natural rather than the big 175 circle going on.

Speaker 2:

Yeah, yeah, it is much easier to pedal that smaller circle. And you know, I think, see, like another advantage is like being able to achieve or maintain higher cadences. You know, the the higher cadences, the better clearance in like taking that to maybe somebody who, like, is a crit rider, um, or specializes in circuit races, crit races in in this, in the sort yeah, so I guess our shorter cranks better.

Speaker 1:

So should everyone just go out and buy 175s or 155s? What's, what's your advice?

Speaker 2:

It depends. Uh, the great coaching phrase, right? Um, if you're having a problem like, if you're having an issue that you're dealing with in particular the knee pain, you know, kind of the front of the kneecap kind of pain that would be, you know someplace where I would see the pain manifest, if it's like excessive bending and that could be just you know, some wearing away of the cartilage. Or maybe you've had you know some kind of knee surgery where you maybe you don't have full flexion anymore, so that would be it. And if you're maybe just less flexible overall, because hip flexibility does play, play a role as well, even on a standard road position we were talking about it specifically for time trial position, but even to just maybe have a better road position, you know that might be the case. So there have been very few people I've fit that. I've said, hey, I'm recommending specifically you go out and buy new cranks, you know. But but if it's, if there's a issue to solve, that might be something to explore.

Speaker 1:

So even if so, you would say, unless there's a problem, no need to change. And there's no, like it's not important to even explore some sort of optimization. Like, if there's no pain, cool, but is it, could it be better? Like, is that fair?

Speaker 2:

Yeah, that's absolutely fair and you know that's something that sometimes I pick up when I am doing a fit like the retool is a advanced, you know, 3d motion capture where I have all these sensors on people's joint angles so I can see their hip motion on on. You know how much their hips like going up and down or side to side, or how much knee flexion they actually have. I can see, you know, if their body's rolling around a lot and things like that, where that nuance might be not something that somebody sees as a problem, but I can pick it up as a, you know, fitter and see, oh, we could get smoother here. To that end I don't know that. Everybody knows there's a problem.

Speaker 2:

I just fit a woman a couple weeks ago and it was like a medium-sized frame, a mountain bike, and it came with 175 cranks which was like totally inappropriate for the. The like you know she's probably five, five, five, six, whatever. Anyway, I think it was just a manufacturer mishap where we that was a case. I'm like we need to go lower because this bike came with the wrong size of crank. You know, it's not just like she would do better on a shorter crank, it came with cranks that were too long, and she might have not known that on her own yeah, I'd agree with that.

Speaker 1:

Um, I know that some bike fit studios, including uh conti's bike shop, my bike shop here in dc. They have a whole retool bike that can change stuff on the fly, like automatic crank length and set. Are you working with something like that where?

Speaker 2:

they can know, but that is a great tool.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, because you can kind of try it before you buy it, sort of thing in terms of a crank length or a stem length or something like that.

Speaker 2:

Yeah, the reason why I'm a little hesitant to push people towards that is because it's a major expense not just the hundreds of dollars for your crank set and then making sure it's compatible with your group set and your bottom bracket style and maybe you have your power meter in your crank and things like that. For especially if you're after like a marginal gain and we're not trying to solve a problem, and you're spending well over 500 or even a thousand dollars to change your crank arms by two and a half millimeters, like that's you know, or even five millimeters and most people are not recommending more than five millimeters, unless it's like I just had a knee replacement. I've got to go from you know it's glaringly obvious.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, so I guess to that point, if, if somebody has four bikes or something and they end up deciding to go 2.5 millimeters or five shorter, what do you recommend? Should they just do all their bikes or should they do one bike Like where does I need to in order to optimize or keep my knees healthy? Or something like that? Should I be running the same crank length on all bikes?

Speaker 2:

I think when we're talking about healthy and like addressing the biomechanical issues and pain, the same on all bikes is probably advantageous, or most advantageous. Because you're just pedaling, that you know smaller diameter, circle less, less flexion. When somebody's you know, smaller diameter, circle, less flexion, when somebody's you know, let's just say they're normal and they're just trying to optimize their performance, it might be slightly shorter on the time trial bike but then you know more standard on their other bikes. The drawback to having the different sizes is that you get very efficient at doing this. You know one diameter, all the muscle firing patterns of this, this you know.

Speaker 2:

Range of the certain range of motion and if you're changing it all the time, it can, you know, decrease your efficiency a little bit. So I don't like, certainly don't like to see somebody going from like a road bike to a time trial bike with more than five millimeters difference. I think two and a half is probably something that's not really noticeable, but the short is all the same is best for your efficiency. But seeing a difference between maybe road, mountain and gravel or whatever, and then maybe the one-off like time trial bike shorter, would be probably the most typical scenario I'd see.

Speaker 1:

Cause, I would say I would say too, just like my own personal use case here all my road bikes. I've been running one 72, five my whole life. My mountain bikes. I used to run one 75, but now I'm running, running 170. So I'm jumping back and forth between 170 on my mountain bike, 172 on my road bike, but I have no pain issue, no knee issue, no hip issues really that you know I know of. In that way, uh, I would say the 170 feels a heck of a lot better on the mountain bike and maybe I'm like starting the pedal stroke a little sooner. Um, so that feels super smooth to me, but I could be doing it wrong. I don't know. You tell me.

Speaker 2:

I don't think it's wrong. You do ride in a little bit different position on the two different bikes.

Speaker 1:

I was going to say that the the mountain bike positions to have changed quite a bit, especially like, if it's more of an XC sort of setup, I would probably go I'd match that with the road bike. But if it's all mountain, downcountry bike, enduro bike, that kind of thing, I think the geometries and the overall fit and keep in mind the saddle height's roughly the same anyway and you're going to lower that a touch from the road bike because of the cleat pedal interface.

Speaker 2:

So apples, apples, oranges, I don't know, I'm not recommending that the people listening to this podcast like run out and go to their local bike shop and all jump on shorter cranks, but it might be something that when you're getting your next new bike that you may consider, especially if you're having any of the things that we talked about, you know, hip flexibility, knee flexibility or just a smoothness of your pedal stroke. You know, I like to say I have a little hitch in my giddy up, a little like a little. There's like a little hop in my pedal stroke and that's just because I know, because I am so short that the 165s for me are actually a little long.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, so you're still running 165.

Speaker 2:

Well, I'm on SRAM. They just released the 160s, so next time.

Speaker 1:

Perfect. Well, we are. Uh, we are getting a little long here, renee. Uh, but when I was thinking about this podcast, I was like okay, narrow, you know narrow, bar, shorter cranks. And man, I get asked all the time how do you, how do you choose a good saddle? And I don't even know if we'd go there because that could probably stand as a whole podcast itself. But any advice there in the way of identifying good saddle or changing the saddle, any, any advice.

Speaker 2:

Yeah, I think that we could go on for an hour talking about saddle. Saddles is, you know, one of the biggest fit items to address because it's a major contact point and it's the contact point people have probably the most issues with, that and hands. But I might just leave it at. You might explore different saddles if you're, if you're uncomfortable, like saddles shouldn't be uncomfortable. You shouldn't have to like scoot around on your saddle all the time or, like you know, certainly get sore spots or chafing, or saddle sores, numbness, like all those are negatives and you don't have to. You don't have to live like that.

Speaker 2:

You know I think that we were, we were talking before we gone on that your shadow should just be like not noticeable, like yes, there there's, you can feel it, but it shouldn't be like an uncomfortable thing that there is an uncomfortable spot or you're moving around on the saddle or you're getting numb after a while.

Speaker 2:

Then it's time to you know, address it and I think we could spend some time at some point going into, oh, if you feel front pressure here or if you have excessive pressure there, or if you're, you know, ride a low position or an upright position of what kind of saddles to work with. My recommendation is like go talk to your local bike shop Like I'm going to make my pitch here because I do work out of a shop those guys behind the sales counter, they know the saddles and they you can describe to them what you're feeling and they can give you some good selections to go with with where. Just looking at a saddle in a magazine, that probably won't be as easy to find the solution. If you're just like oh, matthew Vanderpoel rides this saddle, I'm going to ride that saddle too.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, for sure. And I think too, just to kind of close off the saddle point is, um, yeah, if you're having those issues, you know, talk to local bike shop, get a bike fit, and a lot of bike shops will have some demo saddles that you can try before you actually buy it, cause that's a that's a pretty big expense too, or can be, uh, for some of the higher end ones. So, um, but yeah, I think, to summarize all of this, I'll just start first by saying we should do a full episode on saddles. So mark your calendar, renee, we're going to do that, uh, and then you know, uh, all joking aside, narrow bars, shorter cranks, they are trends right now, trends for decent reasons, uh, narrow bars, aerodynamics, um, in kind of customizing the style of writing that you choose to do, but it's not always the best.

Speaker 1:

With shorter cranks, it does seem like there is more pros than cons, but it comes down to the riding style, riding preference and your overall biomechanics. Renee, any kind of final takeaways that you want every listener to really kind of like burn in their brains about this when they go into their next bike fit?

Speaker 2:

Yeah, I think it's good to ask questions of the fitter you know to. If you're curious about those issues, to ask them, and especially if you're, you know, trying to address a performance issue, like if you're that athlete who needs that, you know you're the breakaway specialist and you need that, you know extra second to kilometer on on your breakaways. Yeah, maybe the narrow bars are for you, um, or the same thing with the, you know, pedaling efficiency and things like that. Or you know, certainly the knee pain issues, um, to ask a qualified expert about that.

Speaker 1:

Yeah, no, completely agree. And, um, you know, with that said, um, I'll say, renee, thank you once again for coming on the podcast. It's always super fun to pick your brain on these topics and you always bring, uh, that element of what's trending, what actually works, and you've been practicing, been practicing with all of this, so you got that good, practical advice that I think everybody can apply to their bike riding training and their own experience. So thanks again, renee.

Speaker 2:

You're welcome. Thanks for having me, Adam.

Speaker 1:

Thanks for joining us on the Time Crunch Cyclist podcast. We hope you enjoyed the show. Crunch Cyclist podcast. We hope you enjoyed the show. If you want even more actionable training advice, head over to trainrightcom backslash newsletter and subscribe to our free weekly publication. Each week you'll get in-depth training content that goes beyond what we cover here on the podcast. That'll help you take your training to the next level. That's all for now. Until next time, train hard, train smart, train right.

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